First workshop with Branka!

My first workshop of my second semester was with Branka Vorkapic. In this session, we talked about products we should have in our kits, areas of the industry, and we also looked at different editorial images and tried to recreate them as accurately as possible.

Some of the products discussed are in Branka's kit. She finds them to be good all round products that can have a variety of uses. These products are:

• Bioderma (Makeup Remover/Cleanser) - Shop 
• [WARNING: Silicone based products will slide off using Bioderma]
• Vitamin C Serum  (Dry Skin) - Laid Bare Shop 
•    or Bodyshop Shop
• Fast Response Eye Cream MAC - Shop
• Inglot Gel Eyeliner - Shop
• Precision Ink Illamasqua - Shop
• Kryolan Ultra Foundation - Shop
• MAC Vanilla Pigment (for highlighting) - Shop
• L'oreal Eyebrow Pencil - Shop
• Makeup Forever Aqua Brows - Shop

Demo by Branka Vorkapic

Smokey Eye

• Apply gel liner all over the lid 
• Blend out with a brush before it dries
• Line the top waterline
• Go in with brûlée under the brow as a blending colour
• Blend right on the line with a deep brown eyeshadow
• Revolt skin lights - pink for light skin
• Mix illuminator with foundation and apply where illumination is needed
• Apply foundation to the rest of face
• Powder lightly
• Contour with powder on top of foundation contour
• Apply a black eyeshadow under the eye, working into hand first so there's no fall out
• Line the eye with cake liner
• Apply mascara
• Apply a cream blusher (Ben nye cream blusher wheel) to the apples of the cheeks and work out
• Apply a lip liner and lipstick

After the demo, we talked about how we could change the look quickly into a completely different one. This is a useful trick when working on a lookbook, music video, catwalk, editorial etc. 

She added a Royal Blue onto the centre of the lid, using a flat brush to really pack the colour on. She had also made the lipstick brighter, to make the whole makeup completely different to the look before. 

The blue on the eye really pops and makes the model's eye colour a lot brighter, without being over the top. It is fairly subtle and makes a good night look or a statement makeup for catwalk or a shoot. 

My Work

I had chosen a fashion image to recreate on my model. 

 

 

(My model looking beautiful!) :o

I feel that the block liner/shadow could have been a lot cleaner and also more even in application. I tried to recreate the subtle gloss on the eye by using MAC mixing medium over the top of the gel liner, but it made the liner separate and go patchy. The shape isn't quite the same as the picture, but I feel that it it was right for my model's features. I had also tried to glue the eyebrows upwards using a brow gel, but it wasn't strong enough for the job, hence the messy eyebrows!

To change the look into a different one, I added some quick cross hatched lines to the eye. 

I think that the separation of the liner in this look works really well (happy accident!) because of the nature of the flicky lines coming out of the eye. I prefer this look because it has more texture and movement.

I learnt a lot about symmetry this session, as the makeup I recreated used block liner, which is harder to disguise if it is unsymmetrical. I also learnt about making the most out of the time you have, and planning a shoot accordingly: by starting off with the 'base' makeup, and adding to it to create different looks without having to wipe anything off, thus saving time!